(PART 3):
THE GIGS AND PUBLICITY
Last week we covered equipment needed for a band. This week is all about the gigs and publicity.
There are many ways to create public awareness of your band. The most obvious are publicity, competitions, and live performances.
The easiest way to make a name for your band is to enter competitions. Don’t be too selective about which competitions you enter. Any publicity is good!
The more competitions you enter, the more experience your band will get playing under pressure. You may also want to try putting your hand up to play at functions or at public events, like school fetes.
Organizers are always looking for cheap entertainment, and it’s a great opportunity for the public to hear your sounds. Who knows what type of people the audience may include!
When you first start playing in public, avoid original songs. Popular cover songs are much safer, as they are just that – popular! Play them well and the audience will warm to your band. Once you have built up an audience, then you can slowly try mixing in original material.
Even though playing cover songs may go against your creative processes, remember that if you want to make it as a live act, you are at the mercy of your audience. You must do everything to attract and hold your audience. A proven formula is the cover song. Find ones that genuinely reflect the type of band you are. This will give the audience a feel for your band without hitting them full on with your presence. It is easier to build up a fan base this way.
Just because you are playing covers doesn’t mean that you can’t be unique either. Research other bands, see what they are doing, and do things differently. Play against the norm. It’s a lot easier to attract attention when you are swimming upstream. Your uniqueness will stand you out from the crowd.
A large part of attracting an audience is publicity. Make sure you play to this by getting as much publicity as you can. Local media is a good start. They are always looking for a new story. Contact your local newspaper or radio station before gigs or after any success in competitions. Tell them what you are up to. Often they will find an angle to it and it may lead to some much needed free publicity. Developing your own website is always useful as well. It may come as a shock to newbies, but the fact of the matter is that the product only counts for 10% of the success. 90% is advertising and publicity, so do what you can to spread the word!
No matter how popular the cover songs you pick are, or how frequently you perform, your band will fail without performance consistency. After working so hard to attract an audience, you don’t want that audience labeling your band as inconsistent. There is no excuse for a bad day in the live music industry. If you’re going to take this seriously, make sure you have had enough practice, and air out any problems (be they technical or personal) before you hit the stage.
Now you have all the parts to forming and maintaining a successful band! It can be a tricky process. There will be ups and downs for any band. The test of a good band will be how they survive the lows. Keep working at it, because the highs completely over shadow the lows.
Remember: Guitar Tips love to hear about your success stories! If you have used Guitar Tips and have managed to start a band, drop us a line and tell us about it!
Kamis, 26 Juni 2008
Rabu, 25 Juni 2008
The basics Of Guitar
Anatomy of the Guitar
So you have a guitar, and you want to learn how to play it, right? Well, first...get to know your guitar a little better. Here is a diagram of the electric guitar, along with part definitions. (The Acoustic guitar will be quite similar)
Body: The main part of the guitar which connects to the guitar neck. Also where the pickups and bridge is located.
Bridge: The bridge assembly, or just "bridge" is an area on the face of the guitar where the string meet or are connected to the face.
Frets: Vertical metal wires which sit vertically on the guitar neck.
Headstock: The area of the guitar at the end of the neck where the strings are tuned.
Neck: The long narrow part of the guitar where notes are fretted. Located between the body and headstock of the guitar.
Nut: The point on the guitar neck where the strings touch the neck and join the headstock.
Pickup Switch: A switch located on the body of the guitar used to select different pickups for different tones and sounds.
Pickups: A Pickup is a magnet wrapped in wires which sits on the face of an electric guitar, underneath the strings. When the strings move, it interferes with the magnetic field of the pickup and that impulse is sent to the amplifier. The impulse is then modified at the amplifier.
Tremolo: (aka: Whammy bar) The tremolo is a bar connected to the bride of the guitar. By moving the tremolo bar up or down, you can move the bridge, thus changing the pitch.
Tuning Pegs: The pegs located at the headstock which are used to tune the guitar. the Machine Heads have gears, which when turned, can tighten or loosen the string.
Volume & Tone Control: Control knobs on the body of the guitar which are used to adjust guitar volume and tone.
So you have a guitar, and you want to learn how to play it, right? Well, first...get to know your guitar a little better. Here is a diagram of the electric guitar, along with part definitions. (The Acoustic guitar will be quite similar)
Body: The main part of the guitar which connects to the guitar neck. Also where the pickups and bridge is located.
Bridge: The bridge assembly, or just "bridge" is an area on the face of the guitar where the string meet or are connected to the face.
Frets: Vertical metal wires which sit vertically on the guitar neck.
Headstock: The area of the guitar at the end of the neck where the strings are tuned.
Neck: The long narrow part of the guitar where notes are fretted. Located between the body and headstock of the guitar.
Nut: The point on the guitar neck where the strings touch the neck and join the headstock.
Pickup Switch: A switch located on the body of the guitar used to select different pickups for different tones and sounds.
Pickups: A Pickup is a magnet wrapped in wires which sits on the face of an electric guitar, underneath the strings. When the strings move, it interferes with the magnetic field of the pickup and that impulse is sent to the amplifier. The impulse is then modified at the amplifier.
Tremolo: (aka: Whammy bar) The tremolo is a bar connected to the bride of the guitar. By moving the tremolo bar up or down, you can move the bridge, thus changing the pitch.
Tuning Pegs: The pegs located at the headstock which are used to tune the guitar. the Machine Heads have gears, which when turned, can tighten or loosen the string.
Volume & Tone Control: Control knobs on the body of the guitar which are used to adjust guitar volume and tone.
The History of the Electric Guitar
by: Paul Smith
When most people think of electric guitars, they think of rock music. But electric guitars are more versatile than you’d think. You can find them in jazz, blues, country music, New-Age compositions, and even contemporary classical pieces. Electric guitars are intimately associated with many famous musicians of the twentieth century—and may be the iconic musical instrument of our time.
The demand for electric guitars came during the Big Band Era in the 20’s and 30’s. The big brass bands of the time were very loud, and other instruments had to be artificially amplified to stand up to their powerful sound. Performers experimented with attaching microphones to acoustic guitars. The first manufactured electric guitars were made in 1931 by the Electro String Instrument Corporation.
The first time an electric guitar is known to have been used in performance was in 1932. Bandleader Gage Brewer of Wichita, Kansas, received two electric guitars directly through Electro String Instruments, possibly for publicity purposes. Brewer wrote about the guitars in an article in the Wichita Beacon before the performance.
The earliest known recording of an electric guitar performance was produced in 1938. George Barnes, a jazz guitarist, recorded two songs with the guitar, called “It’s a Lowdown Dirty Shame” and “Sweetheart Land.”
The earliest electric guitars were essentially hollow-bodied acoustic guitars equipped with Tungsten pickups. The problem with hollow-body electric guitars is that the hollow space within the guitar produces vibrations when the strings are plucked or strummed. These vibrations account for the unique tone of an acoustic guitar, but they produce harsh feedback when they interact with the pickups in an electric guitar. Early electric guitar players used to stuff rags and newspapers into their hollow-body instruments in an attempt to get rid of the feedback.
One of the earlier solid-body guitars was an aluminium instrument known as the “Frying Pan” or “Pancake Guitar.” These guitars were said to have produced a sound similar to that of modern electric guitars.
Several other well-known luthiers experimented with solid-body guitars during the early history of the electric guitar. In 1940, during his time at Gibson Guitars, Les Paul attempted a solid-body instrument called the “log guitar,” so called because it was a simple post equipped with neck, strings, and pickups.
The electric guitar did not hit commercial success until the 1950’s, when Fender released its first solid-body model: the Esquire. The Esquire was followed by the Telecaster and finally, in 1954, the Stratocaster. The “Strat” was hailed in professional musical and luthier circles alike, and became a signature instrument of such famous musicians as Jimi Hendrix, George Harrison, David Gilmour, Eric Clapton, Jimmy Page, and many others.
The electric guitar produced an aggressive sound very different from the melodic and lyrical tones of its ancestor, the acoustic. The sound of the electric guitar became characteristic of rock and roll in the 60’s and 70’s. It was a high-profile instrument during this time, appearing on stage with hundreds of famous bands and musicians.
This created demand among the general public for affordable electric guitars. In the 60’s and 70’s, electric guitars were very expensive—too pricey for a buyer who wasn’t a famous musician. Although some companies attempted to fill the gap with cheap imitations, the sound of these guitars did not compare to the real thing.
It wasn’t until the 1980’s that Japanese manufacturers stepped forward with affordable electric guitars capable of professional-quality sound. This put pressure on American companies such as Gibson and Fender to provide their own affordable lines. Electric guitars became more and more successful in the consumer market as quality improved, and prices went down as new manufacturers entered the market. Soon, electric guitars were more accessible than they had ever been.
Today, the electric guitar is one of the most prolific instruments in popular music. You can find it in a wide variety of genres, from metal to New Age. You can also buy an electric guitar like the rock stars have—without paying the prices they pay. Because it’s so common in contemporary music and in the hands of amateur musicians, there’s little doubt that the electric guitar is one of the most successful instruments of the twentieth century.
When most people think of electric guitars, they think of rock music. But electric guitars are more versatile than you’d think. You can find them in jazz, blues, country music, New-Age compositions, and even contemporary classical pieces. Electric guitars are intimately associated with many famous musicians of the twentieth century—and may be the iconic musical instrument of our time.
The demand for electric guitars came during the Big Band Era in the 20’s and 30’s. The big brass bands of the time were very loud, and other instruments had to be artificially amplified to stand up to their powerful sound. Performers experimented with attaching microphones to acoustic guitars. The first manufactured electric guitars were made in 1931 by the Electro String Instrument Corporation.
The first time an electric guitar is known to have been used in performance was in 1932. Bandleader Gage Brewer of Wichita, Kansas, received two electric guitars directly through Electro String Instruments, possibly for publicity purposes. Brewer wrote about the guitars in an article in the Wichita Beacon before the performance.
The earliest known recording of an electric guitar performance was produced in 1938. George Barnes, a jazz guitarist, recorded two songs with the guitar, called “It’s a Lowdown Dirty Shame” and “Sweetheart Land.”
The earliest electric guitars were essentially hollow-bodied acoustic guitars equipped with Tungsten pickups. The problem with hollow-body electric guitars is that the hollow space within the guitar produces vibrations when the strings are plucked or strummed. These vibrations account for the unique tone of an acoustic guitar, but they produce harsh feedback when they interact with the pickups in an electric guitar. Early electric guitar players used to stuff rags and newspapers into their hollow-body instruments in an attempt to get rid of the feedback.
One of the earlier solid-body guitars was an aluminium instrument known as the “Frying Pan” or “Pancake Guitar.” These guitars were said to have produced a sound similar to that of modern electric guitars.
Several other well-known luthiers experimented with solid-body guitars during the early history of the electric guitar. In 1940, during his time at Gibson Guitars, Les Paul attempted a solid-body instrument called the “log guitar,” so called because it was a simple post equipped with neck, strings, and pickups.
The electric guitar did not hit commercial success until the 1950’s, when Fender released its first solid-body model: the Esquire. The Esquire was followed by the Telecaster and finally, in 1954, the Stratocaster. The “Strat” was hailed in professional musical and luthier circles alike, and became a signature instrument of such famous musicians as Jimi Hendrix, George Harrison, David Gilmour, Eric Clapton, Jimmy Page, and many others.
The electric guitar produced an aggressive sound very different from the melodic and lyrical tones of its ancestor, the acoustic. The sound of the electric guitar became characteristic of rock and roll in the 60’s and 70’s. It was a high-profile instrument during this time, appearing on stage with hundreds of famous bands and musicians.
This created demand among the general public for affordable electric guitars. In the 60’s and 70’s, electric guitars were very expensive—too pricey for a buyer who wasn’t a famous musician. Although some companies attempted to fill the gap with cheap imitations, the sound of these guitars did not compare to the real thing.
It wasn’t until the 1980’s that Japanese manufacturers stepped forward with affordable electric guitars capable of professional-quality sound. This put pressure on American companies such as Gibson and Fender to provide their own affordable lines. Electric guitars became more and more successful in the consumer market as quality improved, and prices went down as new manufacturers entered the market. Soon, electric guitars were more accessible than they had ever been.
Today, the electric guitar is one of the most prolific instruments in popular music. You can find it in a wide variety of genres, from metal to New Age. You can also buy an electric guitar like the rock stars have—without paying the prices they pay. Because it’s so common in contemporary music and in the hands of amateur musicians, there’s little doubt that the electric guitar is one of the most successful instruments of the twentieth century.
Anatomy of the Electric Guitar
: A Glossary of Parts
by: Ek Lucktong
'Guitar speak' can be a little confusing, especially to non-guitarists and beginners. This article describes the various part of the electric guitar and some of the terminology used in describing them.
The 3 main parts of the electric guitar are called the body, the neck, and the headstock.
The body of the guitar is the largest part and where the strumming hand is positioned and can be made of various types of wood. Electric guitar bodies can be solid, hollow, or semi-hollow. Solid-bodies are usually 2-3 shaped pieces of solid wood glued together. Hollow-bodies, like acoustics, have a completely open resonance chambers usually with f-hole shaped openings. Semi-hollowbodies look like hollow bodies from the outside, however, will have a solid block of wood through the center of the resonance chamber. Body shapes can vary widely from the classic ‘Stratocaster’ and ‘Les Paul’ shapes to the radical ’flying v’ and ’explorer’ shapes. The sides that make up the body of a guitar are referred to as the top, back, and sides. The top of the body can be flat or carved (curve shaped). The upper bout and lower bout of the body refer to the head-facing or feet-facing halves of the body, respectively, when in the playing position. The horns of the body are the wooden protrusions found on either side of the neck on a Stratocaster shaped guitar. Guitars may contain a binding made of celluloid, plastics, or wood that outlines the sides of the body, headstock, and sometimes neck.
The neck on a guitar is the long midsection where the fretted hand is positioned and can be a single piece of wood or 2-3 glued pieces. The neck joint is where the neck joins the body. Neck joints are categorized as either bolt-on, set neck (glued in place), or neck-thru style where the neck continues through to the body in a single solid piece. The heel describes the flattened area on the back of the neck that rests right next to the neck joint. The fretboard or fingerboard refers to the wooden face on the top of the neck usually made from maple, rosewood, or ebony. The frets are the wire dividers on the fingerboard. Fretmarkers are placed at set positions on the fingerboard and are commonly made of mother-of-pearl or ink inlays. These inlays are most commonly shaped like round dots or trapezoids. Most electric guitar necks will have an adjustable truss rod running through the center of the neck as a reinforcement and counterbalance to the string tension.
The headstock is the portion at the end of the neck. The shape and markings on the headstock are indicative of the brand of guitar. Guitar brands can be instantly recognized by the signature shape of their headstocks. Furthermore, headstocks will usually have the guitar brand name imprinted or inlayed on the top and have the serial number and other company information on the back. The headstock may have a plastic truss rod plate covering the adjustable end of the neck’s truss rod. The tuners, pegs, gears, and keys all refer to the string winding hardware located on the headstock.
The hardware on an electric guitar refers to the usually metal pieces visible on guitars body and headstock. The bridge is the string stop apparatus on the body of the guitar. Guitar bridges contain a saddle for each individual string and may have a spring mechanism called a tremolo to change the string tension while playing the guitar. The handle used to manipulate the tremolo is known as the tremolo arm or whammy bar. Some guitar bridges will contain fine tuner knobs as well. The strings on some guitars will extend past the bridge and anchor to a tailpiece or pass through to the back of the body in a string-through-body design. The nut refers to the string stop piece located at the junction of the neck and the headstock. Nuts can be made of wood, ivory, bone, or metal. Strap buttons are located on the body and sometimes heel of the guitar and provide tether spots for the guitar strap to hang.
Guitar electronics refer to the pickups and controls. Pickups are wound magnet devices that detect string vibration and sends it to the amplifier to produce sound. They can be a single-coil type or paired as a humbucker type. Pickups can be passive or active if they have a battery powered preamp. Electronic controls are the volume and tone knobs or pots (potentiometers) and the pickup selector switch or toggle switch. The input jack is where you plug the guitar into the amplifier. The electronic components of a guitar are usually set inside of a routed out compartment in the body of the guitar and is often covered with a plastic pickguard or scratch plate on the top of the body or a backplate on the back of the body.
The finish on a guitar refers to the painting techniques used to give the guitar its appearance. Some guitars will have a natural finish that showcase the beauty of the wood grain used while other will have a solid paint color. One popular technique is to use a translucent finish that both colors the guitar while also showing off the underlying wood grain. These guitars are regarded as having highly flamed tops or figured tops as opposed to the little or no grain displaying plain top translucent finishes. One special type of wood grain translucent finish that shows a distinct square-like pattern is known as a quilt-top finish. Another popular technique which uses a gradual grading of 2-3 colors is known as a burst finish as seen in the popular sunburst, honeyburst, and silverburst finishes. Many guitars will have a high gloss clear coat finish of lacquer or nitrocellulose while other will have a flat matte, smooth, and freshly sanded feeling satin finish.
I hope this article will give you a better understanding of the various guitar parts and the terminology used to describe them. Visit www.2ndstringguitars.com for the best value in new and used guitars, factory 2nds, and refurbished instruments at cheap guitar prices.
E. Lucktong
by: Ek Lucktong
'Guitar speak' can be a little confusing, especially to non-guitarists and beginners. This article describes the various part of the electric guitar and some of the terminology used in describing them.
The 3 main parts of the electric guitar are called the body, the neck, and the headstock.
The body of the guitar is the largest part and where the strumming hand is positioned and can be made of various types of wood. Electric guitar bodies can be solid, hollow, or semi-hollow. Solid-bodies are usually 2-3 shaped pieces of solid wood glued together. Hollow-bodies, like acoustics, have a completely open resonance chambers usually with f-hole shaped openings. Semi-hollowbodies look like hollow bodies from the outside, however, will have a solid block of wood through the center of the resonance chamber. Body shapes can vary widely from the classic ‘Stratocaster’ and ‘Les Paul’ shapes to the radical ’flying v’ and ’explorer’ shapes. The sides that make up the body of a guitar are referred to as the top, back, and sides. The top of the body can be flat or carved (curve shaped). The upper bout and lower bout of the body refer to the head-facing or feet-facing halves of the body, respectively, when in the playing position. The horns of the body are the wooden protrusions found on either side of the neck on a Stratocaster shaped guitar. Guitars may contain a binding made of celluloid, plastics, or wood that outlines the sides of the body, headstock, and sometimes neck.
The neck on a guitar is the long midsection where the fretted hand is positioned and can be a single piece of wood or 2-3 glued pieces. The neck joint is where the neck joins the body. Neck joints are categorized as either bolt-on, set neck (glued in place), or neck-thru style where the neck continues through to the body in a single solid piece. The heel describes the flattened area on the back of the neck that rests right next to the neck joint. The fretboard or fingerboard refers to the wooden face on the top of the neck usually made from maple, rosewood, or ebony. The frets are the wire dividers on the fingerboard. Fretmarkers are placed at set positions on the fingerboard and are commonly made of mother-of-pearl or ink inlays. These inlays are most commonly shaped like round dots or trapezoids. Most electric guitar necks will have an adjustable truss rod running through the center of the neck as a reinforcement and counterbalance to the string tension.
The headstock is the portion at the end of the neck. The shape and markings on the headstock are indicative of the brand of guitar. Guitar brands can be instantly recognized by the signature shape of their headstocks. Furthermore, headstocks will usually have the guitar brand name imprinted or inlayed on the top and have the serial number and other company information on the back. The headstock may have a plastic truss rod plate covering the adjustable end of the neck’s truss rod. The tuners, pegs, gears, and keys all refer to the string winding hardware located on the headstock.
The hardware on an electric guitar refers to the usually metal pieces visible on guitars body and headstock. The bridge is the string stop apparatus on the body of the guitar. Guitar bridges contain a saddle for each individual string and may have a spring mechanism called a tremolo to change the string tension while playing the guitar. The handle used to manipulate the tremolo is known as the tremolo arm or whammy bar. Some guitar bridges will contain fine tuner knobs as well. The strings on some guitars will extend past the bridge and anchor to a tailpiece or pass through to the back of the body in a string-through-body design. The nut refers to the string stop piece located at the junction of the neck and the headstock. Nuts can be made of wood, ivory, bone, or metal. Strap buttons are located on the body and sometimes heel of the guitar and provide tether spots for the guitar strap to hang.
Guitar electronics refer to the pickups and controls. Pickups are wound magnet devices that detect string vibration and sends it to the amplifier to produce sound. They can be a single-coil type or paired as a humbucker type. Pickups can be passive or active if they have a battery powered preamp. Electronic controls are the volume and tone knobs or pots (potentiometers) and the pickup selector switch or toggle switch. The input jack is where you plug the guitar into the amplifier. The electronic components of a guitar are usually set inside of a routed out compartment in the body of the guitar and is often covered with a plastic pickguard or scratch plate on the top of the body or a backplate on the back of the body.
The finish on a guitar refers to the painting techniques used to give the guitar its appearance. Some guitars will have a natural finish that showcase the beauty of the wood grain used while other will have a solid paint color. One popular technique is to use a translucent finish that both colors the guitar while also showing off the underlying wood grain. These guitars are regarded as having highly flamed tops or figured tops as opposed to the little or no grain displaying plain top translucent finishes. One special type of wood grain translucent finish that shows a distinct square-like pattern is known as a quilt-top finish. Another popular technique which uses a gradual grading of 2-3 colors is known as a burst finish as seen in the popular sunburst, honeyburst, and silverburst finishes. Many guitars will have a high gloss clear coat finish of lacquer or nitrocellulose while other will have a flat matte, smooth, and freshly sanded feeling satin finish.
I hope this article will give you a better understanding of the various guitar parts and the terminology used to describe them. Visit www.2ndstringguitars.com for the best value in new and used guitars, factory 2nds, and refurbished instruments at cheap guitar prices.
E. Lucktong
Tips on Buying Guitars
by: Mantius Cazaubon
There are so many guitar models on the market today. So many types including electric, acoustic, acoustic electric, nylon string, and steel string guitars. How does one make a selection? Here are a few tips to help you choose one that meets your needs.
1. It depends on how much you can afford.
With such a wealth of guitars available, a working person shouldn't have a problem finding one that fits their budget. But this doesn't mean that you should settle for anything. As the old adage goes, you usually get what you pay for. Usually the more money you invest, the greater the returns. You're going to be spending a lot of time practicing so choose an instrument that you can enjoy. An instrument that you can look forward to playing.
2. What style of music will you be playing?
The style of music to be played should influence your choice of guitar. For instance if you plan on playing rock you should buy an electric guitar, since Rock music is better suited to be played on that type of guitar. If Jazz and blues is your thing you may prefer a semi-acoustic guitar from the start. An acoustic nylon string guitar may be better suited to classical music and smooth Jazz.
3. Child or adult.
Are you a parent looking to buy a guitar for your child? Consider buying a 1/2 size or 3/4 size guitar. Your child doesn't have the reach that an adult has, so these smaller guitars are better suited. Regular size guitars will be more difficult to play and can cause a lack of interest.
You may also want to look into buying an electric guitar for your child if you can afford it. They have a small neck and very light thin strings and are therefore easier to play. If money is an issue a second hand electric guitar may be the answer.
4. Wood type and its relation to tone.
Although there are no rules for choosing guitar woods, there is a guide that you can follow. Generally, darker woods produce a brighter tone while darker woods produces a deeper, richer tone. Medium tone wood like mahogany produce a very even smooth sound spectrum. You should compare various wood colors. The best thing to do is to listen to the tones that a guitar produces before deciding.
5. Pay attention to the guitar's features.
Your guitar must have certain important features. Don't simply focus on looks.
For example, your guitar should have die-cast machine heads (or tuning gears). With this feature, you will be able to tune your instrument more accurately and your guitar will stay in tune longer.
A solid top is also very important. A solid top usually consists of 2 solid matched pieces glued together side by side. This is of better quality than a laminated top where various woods are glued together on top of each other. With a solid top the guitar's tone will be more even and accurate and you can expect a sustaining vibration throughout the guitar's body.
6. Buy a guitar that feels good to you.
You're the one who will be playing that guitar. So you'd better buy one that feels comfortable to you, whether you're sitting or standing. For instance, if the strings are too far from the fretboard, playing will be difficult. An expensive guitar that is not comfortable is a waste. Spend time with the guitar before deciding.
7. The bottom line is sound.
If it sounds good, buy it. No two guitars can ever be the same. It's never about looks. It's about the sound that is generated through the use of the right type of wood and through superior craftsmanship.
You should be able to find a guitar easily online. You can order one that suits your needs today. Some of the best guitar prices can be found on the Internet. You even get free shipping to your door.
There are so many guitar models on the market today. So many types including electric, acoustic, acoustic electric, nylon string, and steel string guitars. How does one make a selection? Here are a few tips to help you choose one that meets your needs.
1. It depends on how much you can afford.
With such a wealth of guitars available, a working person shouldn't have a problem finding one that fits their budget. But this doesn't mean that you should settle for anything. As the old adage goes, you usually get what you pay for. Usually the more money you invest, the greater the returns. You're going to be spending a lot of time practicing so choose an instrument that you can enjoy. An instrument that you can look forward to playing.
2. What style of music will you be playing?
The style of music to be played should influence your choice of guitar. For instance if you plan on playing rock you should buy an electric guitar, since Rock music is better suited to be played on that type of guitar. If Jazz and blues is your thing you may prefer a semi-acoustic guitar from the start. An acoustic nylon string guitar may be better suited to classical music and smooth Jazz.
3. Child or adult.
Are you a parent looking to buy a guitar for your child? Consider buying a 1/2 size or 3/4 size guitar. Your child doesn't have the reach that an adult has, so these smaller guitars are better suited. Regular size guitars will be more difficult to play and can cause a lack of interest.
You may also want to look into buying an electric guitar for your child if you can afford it. They have a small neck and very light thin strings and are therefore easier to play. If money is an issue a second hand electric guitar may be the answer.
4. Wood type and its relation to tone.
Although there are no rules for choosing guitar woods, there is a guide that you can follow. Generally, darker woods produce a brighter tone while darker woods produces a deeper, richer tone. Medium tone wood like mahogany produce a very even smooth sound spectrum. You should compare various wood colors. The best thing to do is to listen to the tones that a guitar produces before deciding.
5. Pay attention to the guitar's features.
Your guitar must have certain important features. Don't simply focus on looks.
For example, your guitar should have die-cast machine heads (or tuning gears). With this feature, you will be able to tune your instrument more accurately and your guitar will stay in tune longer.
A solid top is also very important. A solid top usually consists of 2 solid matched pieces glued together side by side. This is of better quality than a laminated top where various woods are glued together on top of each other. With a solid top the guitar's tone will be more even and accurate and you can expect a sustaining vibration throughout the guitar's body.
6. Buy a guitar that feels good to you.
You're the one who will be playing that guitar. So you'd better buy one that feels comfortable to you, whether you're sitting or standing. For instance, if the strings are too far from the fretboard, playing will be difficult. An expensive guitar that is not comfortable is a waste. Spend time with the guitar before deciding.
7. The bottom line is sound.
If it sounds good, buy it. No two guitars can ever be the same. It's never about looks. It's about the sound that is generated through the use of the right type of wood and through superior craftsmanship.
You should be able to find a guitar easily online. You can order one that suits your needs today. Some of the best guitar prices can be found on the Internet. You even get free shipping to your door.
Simple Steps to Better Guitar Tone
by: Beth Miller
Great guitar tone is something that every guitarist wants. The quest for tone is one of the biggest reasons guitar players drop so much money on amplifiers and effects.
If you've found yourself spending a lot of money lately on various 'sound tweaking' gadgets, take note: the solution to your sound problems just might be closer (and cheaper) than you think!
Whether you want killer distortion or country-twang, the secret of great tone begins with a pure, clean signal.
In other words, no matter how many effects you intend to use, you've got to make sure the basic, unadulterated “dry signal” coming through your amp sounds just as good as anything else.
The reason for this is simple: every effect you add to that signal brings in a little bit of noise. So, you need to start with as clean a signal as possible so that the cumulative impact of noise and signal degradation from your effects is kept to a minimum.
The first step here is as easy as proper maintenance of your guitar. Not only do you need to keep your strings fresh, and your neck in alignment, you also need to eliminate any sources of buzz or hum coming from faulty cords or poor electrical wiring in your pickups or input jack.
The second step is to run the same maintenance check on your amplifier. Now, the fact is, some amps are just noisier than others. If you can find nothing physically wrong with your amp, it may just be that you need to do upgrades for better tone.
For example, your amp's factory-installed speakers are probably not top-of-the-line. In the case of tube amps, especially, this can make a HUGE difference.
Along similar lines, you might also consider upgrading your tubes and/or the transistors used in the pre-amp stage.
Why?
Because your amp's sound is greatly influenced by the way each of these components responds to the guitar signal. Cheap parts have a slower dynamic response, and can also add unwanted coloration to the signal. This is one reason why some amps will sound great at a lower volume, but start to break up and distort as soon as you turn things up.
Last, but not least, take a look at the effects pedals you currently have in your arsenal. Maybe you've purchased 2 or 3 different distortion pedals, for example, in an elusive quest for that perfect 'crunch'?
There's nothing wrong with owning multiple pedals for the same type of effect; but, if you still aren't getting the sound you desire, it could be that you need to add something very basic into the mix, like an EQ pedal.
A good EQ pedal will allow you to shape which frequencies are emphasized. You can, for example, cut the mid-range for a heavier tone, or boost the highs so that your treble notes punch through.
Try mixing and matching EQ and Volume pedals in different places along your effects chain in order to boost or limit the characteristics of other effects. You'll be amazed how many different sounds you can create with a little experimentation!
Great guitar tone is something that every guitarist wants. The quest for tone is one of the biggest reasons guitar players drop so much money on amplifiers and effects.
If you've found yourself spending a lot of money lately on various 'sound tweaking' gadgets, take note: the solution to your sound problems just might be closer (and cheaper) than you think!
Whether you want killer distortion or country-twang, the secret of great tone begins with a pure, clean signal.
In other words, no matter how many effects you intend to use, you've got to make sure the basic, unadulterated “dry signal” coming through your amp sounds just as good as anything else.
The reason for this is simple: every effect you add to that signal brings in a little bit of noise. So, you need to start with as clean a signal as possible so that the cumulative impact of noise and signal degradation from your effects is kept to a minimum.
The first step here is as easy as proper maintenance of your guitar. Not only do you need to keep your strings fresh, and your neck in alignment, you also need to eliminate any sources of buzz or hum coming from faulty cords or poor electrical wiring in your pickups or input jack.
The second step is to run the same maintenance check on your amplifier. Now, the fact is, some amps are just noisier than others. If you can find nothing physically wrong with your amp, it may just be that you need to do upgrades for better tone.
For example, your amp's factory-installed speakers are probably not top-of-the-line. In the case of tube amps, especially, this can make a HUGE difference.
Along similar lines, you might also consider upgrading your tubes and/or the transistors used in the pre-amp stage.
Why?
Because your amp's sound is greatly influenced by the way each of these components responds to the guitar signal. Cheap parts have a slower dynamic response, and can also add unwanted coloration to the signal. This is one reason why some amps will sound great at a lower volume, but start to break up and distort as soon as you turn things up.
Last, but not least, take a look at the effects pedals you currently have in your arsenal. Maybe you've purchased 2 or 3 different distortion pedals, for example, in an elusive quest for that perfect 'crunch'?
There's nothing wrong with owning multiple pedals for the same type of effect; but, if you still aren't getting the sound you desire, it could be that you need to add something very basic into the mix, like an EQ pedal.
A good EQ pedal will allow you to shape which frequencies are emphasized. You can, for example, cut the mid-range for a heavier tone, or boost the highs so that your treble notes punch through.
Try mixing and matching EQ and Volume pedals in different places along your effects chain in order to boost or limit the characteristics of other effects. You'll be amazed how many different sounds you can create with a little experimentation!
Preparing for Your First Beginner
Guitar Lessons
by: Kirk Downing
Beginner Guitar Lessons - An Introduction
The first essential requisite to taking a beginner guitar lesson is to possess your own guitar. How many guitarists do you think started learning the instrument by borrowing others' guitars? None, practically! The logic to this is simple - practice is an important part of the learning process, and having your own guitar makes practice an easy task. You do not necessarily have to buy yourself an expensive instrument; you can even buy a second hand one and graduate to a better guitar once you are familiar with how to play it.
Once you have bought yourself a guitar, you can actually start taking beginner lessons. Beginner lessons are guitar classes taught to newcomers so they are familiar with the basics of the guitar and how to play it. The first thing you will be taught is not how to play the instrument, but what the different parts of the guitar are.
All websites providing online beginner guitar lessons start their teachings from this point. This makes sense because it is not a good idea to learn a musical instrument without first knowing its various parts. Along with knowing each part of the guitar, you also have to learn the functions of each individual part. Knowing the different parts of the guitar and their functions familiarizes you with the instrument.
Basic Steps to Beginner Guitar Lessons
After teaching you the different parts of the guitar and their functions, the next thing beginner guitar lessons teach you are the names of the different strings on the guitar. The strings create the sounds on a guitar when you strike them. After you have learnt about the strings, the next step in a guitar tutorial for beginners is to learn the different ways you can play the guitar - standing, sitting, etc. - and the postures involved.
While learning about the postures, you will also learn how to hold the guitar, and the correct positioning and grip for both your hands. Once you are through with these basics, the next thing that you can learn in beginner guitar lessons is actually how to use the guitar - how to form the different chords, how to hit the strings so you get the proper sound, etc.
Beginner Guitar Lessons - Guitar Theory is not a Prerequisite!
There is one school of thought that emphasizes the need to know guitar theory while taking beginner guitar lessons. The logic for this is simple: once you know the basic theory, it becomes easier to learn the chords. However, this is not a mandatory practice; in fact, many online guitar tutorials do away with the need for knowledge of guitar theory as a prerequisite for learning the chords and other complex things about the guitar.
Basically, the need for guitar theory knowledge depends primarily on your level of interest in the instrument. If you are planning to take up playing the guitar full-time, it makes sense to know the theoretical aspects as well. However, if you are taking it up as just something you want to learn so you can play some of your favorite numbers, then it makes sense to just go ahead with the online tutorials alone and learn the different chords.
Now that you have a solid game plan, it's time for you to get out there and start taking your own beginner guitar lessons!
by: Kirk Downing
Beginner Guitar Lessons - An Introduction
The first essential requisite to taking a beginner guitar lesson is to possess your own guitar. How many guitarists do you think started learning the instrument by borrowing others' guitars? None, practically! The logic to this is simple - practice is an important part of the learning process, and having your own guitar makes practice an easy task. You do not necessarily have to buy yourself an expensive instrument; you can even buy a second hand one and graduate to a better guitar once you are familiar with how to play it.
Once you have bought yourself a guitar, you can actually start taking beginner lessons. Beginner lessons are guitar classes taught to newcomers so they are familiar with the basics of the guitar and how to play it. The first thing you will be taught is not how to play the instrument, but what the different parts of the guitar are.
All websites providing online beginner guitar lessons start their teachings from this point. This makes sense because it is not a good idea to learn a musical instrument without first knowing its various parts. Along with knowing each part of the guitar, you also have to learn the functions of each individual part. Knowing the different parts of the guitar and their functions familiarizes you with the instrument.
Basic Steps to Beginner Guitar Lessons
After teaching you the different parts of the guitar and their functions, the next thing beginner guitar lessons teach you are the names of the different strings on the guitar. The strings create the sounds on a guitar when you strike them. After you have learnt about the strings, the next step in a guitar tutorial for beginners is to learn the different ways you can play the guitar - standing, sitting, etc. - and the postures involved.
While learning about the postures, you will also learn how to hold the guitar, and the correct positioning and grip for both your hands. Once you are through with these basics, the next thing that you can learn in beginner guitar lessons is actually how to use the guitar - how to form the different chords, how to hit the strings so you get the proper sound, etc.
Beginner Guitar Lessons - Guitar Theory is not a Prerequisite!
There is one school of thought that emphasizes the need to know guitar theory while taking beginner guitar lessons. The logic for this is simple: once you know the basic theory, it becomes easier to learn the chords. However, this is not a mandatory practice; in fact, many online guitar tutorials do away with the need for knowledge of guitar theory as a prerequisite for learning the chords and other complex things about the guitar.
Basically, the need for guitar theory knowledge depends primarily on your level of interest in the instrument. If you are planning to take up playing the guitar full-time, it makes sense to know the theoretical aspects as well. However, if you are taking it up as just something you want to learn so you can play some of your favorite numbers, then it makes sense to just go ahead with the online tutorials alone and learn the different chords.
Now that you have a solid game plan, it's time for you to get out there and start taking your own beginner guitar lessons!
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)
